Power Steering in an 1800ES? Yep.


Wed, 29 Apr 1998

While calling around the Denver area to find a steering gearbox for my ES (mine has a pitted spot on the worm gear due to running dry at some point in its life), two different Volvo shops suggested I just do the "conversion." "Huh?" I replied in my best junkyard manner. "Sure we've done it a couple of times for little old ladies." According to them, the pump and gearbox from a 164 or a late 140 can be made to work on an 1800. Apparently the a/c pulley runs the pump which mounts to the a/c compressor bracket. The gearbox supposedly fits (more or less), and a little Mickey Mousing is needed to join the two different columns.

Has anyone ever done this or heard of it? I'm going to scour the cheap junk yards for the parts. I will report further progress when any is made.

Randy Masi


Randy - This is the best plan I've seen so far for power steering in an 1800. Be sure to take careful measurements or get a money-back guarantee from the junkyard in case you buy the parts and discover they won't fit.

Let us know how it goes if you attempt the job. -Glenn.


Fri, 1 May 1998

I looked at a '73 or '74 144 today, and they'll sell me the box, pump & reservoir for about $60. The pump actually mounts on top where the 1800 has the idler pulley for the a/c compressor. If the idler bracket uses the same holes as the pump bracket, that part should be easy (assuming the pump will allow the hood to close). The gearbox is, of course, larger and it has four mounting holes instead of the three. The column has two u-joints and the reservoir just mounts to the inside of the fender above the box. Hopefully they won't crush this car for a while, so I can think about what I'm getting into before I start measuring everything and tearing it apart. I'm also wondering if the 1800 will steer "too" easy and wander on the road if I did put in the power assist. I'd hate to cut up my column and then find out I didn't like it. Any thoughts on that Glenn?

Randy Masi


Randy - I don't think the car would steer too easily or tend to wander with the power steering installed. Ideally, power steering is completely neutral with respect to steering direction. It is possible for the power steering system to pull to one side or the other if it malfunctions, but if it's working o.k., this will not be a problem. I drove a '75 Volvo 164 with power steering for several years, and I did not find the steering to be too light.

I think you have a much greater challenge just making the parts fit and getting them integrated with the rest of the car. Keep us posted. -Glenn.


Mon, 25 May 1998

Glenn;

I got everything out of a '74 142 for $60. It's all cleaned up and sitting in an orange crate. The pitman arm is the same length, but of course it is bent differently. The shaft "seems" to be the same diameter, so maybe I can just switch arms. There's just enough clearance for the pump. But I'll need to drill and tap a hole in the head just behind the first head bolt. The other two mounting holes are already there. The hole to mount the the idler gear is already there. Two of the mounting holes for the box line up. The box might not clear the shock mount, so I may have to shim it in a little. I haven't really looked at the column problem too closely. I'll need some help from Mickey Mouse on that one.

By the way, if this works it will preclude reinstalling the air conditioner. How much is the complete system worth (compressor, hoses, idler, brackets, under dash unit, etc., all working before removal) if anyone wanted it?

Am enclosing JPEG of intended victim.

Thx Randy Masi


Randy - I'm not sure what the air conditioner should be worth. You might try calling a couple 1800 used parts specialists to get an idea. The power steering is a worthy project, and you probably don't need air conditioning in Denver most of the time, but you might want to hang on to the air conditioner just in case. -Glenn.


Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998

Glenn,

We have the box in, had to make a 1" mounting plate to fit the box on the frame in the right spot. Pump is in, had to drill/tap a hole in the head for bracket. Idler is in, no problem, flange with hole was already there. Had to get an idler arm from a 140 so both wheels would move the same. (Pitman arm on 140 box is different from the 1800 arm).

All we need now is the tie rod from a 140 and about 2" of the end of the steering column from same (the "ridged" end that fits into the U joint thingy). The cut end of that will be welded to the thing that holds the rubber thing on the 1800 column. (Sorry, haven't got my book in front of me to find out what all this stuff is actually called.)

We would have been done a week ago, but all of a sudden there's no 140s in my favorite junkyard.

Randy Masi


Randy - Thanks for the update. It's getting more difficult to find parts for these cars in local junkyards. Get 'em while you can.... -Glenn.


Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998

Glenn ,

Everything's in and working. It's a vast improvement over the original steering. Had the front end lined up, adjusted the play in the wheel. The steering is maybe just a tad "soft" compared to my 240 but that car has rack & pinion so it's hard to compare.

The rear end is still kind of "fishy" on this car. It already has the stiffer rear springs, tires are new and the shocks seem stiff enough . Is this typical of the ES? Is there anything else I could do? How about those "shock extenders" to make it even stiffer?

I'll take some pictures of the steering conversion & send them when I get the time. By the way, most of the work was done by my father, I just scrounged the parts.

Randy "parking with one hand" Masi gm@mtnwestprinting.com

Power Steering Photos


Randy - Hey, way to go! This is probably the first documented case of P1800 power steering. I hope your dad feels appreciated. I'd love to see the pictures if you get a chance to send them.

As for the handling, since I've never driven an ES, I'm not sure what would fix the "fishy" rear. Gas shocks are good, but they can be expensive, and at least on my car, the rears squeaked so bad I had to replace them with regular hydraulic shocks (still using gas shocks on the front). A rear sway bar would probably be the first thing I would consider. -Glenn.


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